Into the Sahara

Overheard tour bus patron asking the guide "When did the monarchy end?"  Tour guide answers, "Which monarchy"?  Tourist replies "Whichever".  Wonder why a longterm tour guide hasn't written a "Tour Guide Confidential" book ala Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential"?  I can imagine the amount of looney questions which are asked every day.

Moving along, from the Azrou area we crossed from the Middle Atlas and into the High Atlas range before descending through the Ziz Gorge into Er Rachidia, where we were pleased to find a very nice motel (Auberge Tinit)  with good beds, reading lights, a lot of space and a nice bathroom.  While that doesn't sound very exciting, it was the first place we stayed where a hotel/guesthouse managed to put it all together.  Unfortunately, woke up the next morning with a case of the Moroccan version of Delhi Belly and had to hole up for a day while recovering.  Been at least six years since I've had such an illness, so I guess I was due.  The following day I battered my stomach by eating a medfouna (a sort of Berber calzone--not very good) followed by a dinner of tasty Berber ground meat with a lot of local spices.  Oh well, it's not like I'm going to return here soon, so gotta take advantage of those one-of-a-kind eating opportunities, however distressful.

Got lucky and found another acceptable hotel near Merzouga, the gateway to the Erg Chebbi Dunes and the home of our camel tent camp.  At this point we were deep into the Moroccan Sahara.  Did a little car touring and stumbled upon a Gnaoua band, Les Pigeons du Sable, who put on a private show for us.   Gnaoua is music created by freed slaves from (as they call it here) Black Africa.  It consists of a lot of percussion using drums and castenets as well as stringed instruments.  The performers enter a trance-like state, spinning around a jumping spontaneously.  There are several large Gnaoua festivals and Peter Gabriel has recorded some of the music.  Uplifting stuff and now we've got a desert CD to play.  Here's a YouTube link for the band  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYu3FvU6fEI

Finally, the big day arrived and we headed off to the meeting place for our overnight camel trek.  Touristy for sure, but hard to resist.  We climbed aboard our complaining camels (Romeo and Casanova) and set out across the dunes for our luxury tented camp.  The ride took about 90 minutes and was very hard on our thighs and legs.  There are no stirrups and one has to hold one's thighs apart at an abnormal angle the entire time.  While we could have ridden the camels back the next day, by the time we arrived at the camp, we knew we were going to take the 4WD return option.  The trips typically start during the late afternoon as the sun sets and the dunes change colors.  A really beautiful ride and we could see the mountains of Algeria just 10 miles distant.  Upon dis-embarking from the camels, my camel wiped it's mouth on Suzee's sweater, then started loudly howling.  I did my best camel impersonation and gave it back to the camel, who replied even more loudly.  I'm fairly sure the camel wipe was intentional and I can sympathize with their indignity of having to haul tourists around.  So with two monkey blocks in the back and a camel wipe, Suzee has clinched the annual family award for fun with animals.  They must see that city girl in her and lay it on thick.  The camp was nothing less than spectacular; not only were we lucky enough to have it to ourselves that evening, but we were served drinks and snacks on arrival and a six course dinner.  The tents were truly luxurious, with fine linens, comfy beds and power enough to read as well as charge various gadgets.  Just before bedtime, we were treated to a roaring campfire with some very good Berber music which was performed by the staff.  Unfortunately, a nearly full moon prevented us from seeing many stars.  The camp is run by a Berber (Ali) and his English wife (Sara).  Sara handles the accommodations and has an excellent feel for what makes guests happy.  Highly recommended (Ali and Sara's Desert Camp).