Volubilis and Moulay Idriss

After awakening at 2:30AM for our 5AM flight, we took a long shuttle bus ride from the airport hotel in Milan to the EasyJet terminal.  The place was already packed with folks who apparently spent the night in the airport.  Flight was uneventful and we landed in Casablanca a couple of minutes early.  Had to wait for the car rental agent to show up, but used time to purchase a SIM card and garner some dirhams (that would be cash).  Rental car a somewhat funky Dacia, made in the auto mecca of Romania.  Good that the car had so many minor dents and the inspection report was one big ink blob.
Fortunately the first day's drive of roughly 200 miles was almost all on good toll roads.   I was concerned that exhaustion and crazy Moroccan drivers would be a bad combination.  Not exactly sure where the Moroccans got such a bad reputation since driving here is way less stressful than trying to deal with the Formula One wannabes in Italy.

Initial impression was how much Morocco looked like California, at least along the Atlantic coastline.  At the capital city of Rabat, we headed east, then grabbed a quick lunch tajine at what amounted to a truck stop with a pool and playground.  The fly/human ratio was about a billion to one and the beef tajine we ordered reminded me of the awful Sunday beef stews my mother prepared for about 15 years.  Hmmm, not a very good intro to the cuisine.  After lunch we got some bad directions in Meknes, but at least they led us to an Islamic funeral procession, interesting because there is no coffin and no embalming.  They simply wash the body in a ceremonial rite and parade it to the graveyard, covered in cloth.  Finally arrived at our guesthouse mid-afternoon and were able to rest a bit.  The guesthouse (El Kassaba in Moulay Idriss) featured tiny rooms, rock hard beds and a drain in the bathroom that had to be kept covered to keep sewage odors out.  It wasn't all bad since our neighbor was a Moroccan judge who gave me the first indication that there's a lot of discontent in the lower and middle classes here,  We heard similar refrains from just about every restaurateur and guest house owner we were able to speak with.  A little background:  The country is composed of 60% Berbers, 39% Arabs and 1% all else.  While the Berbers and Arabs have formed an alliance through the centuries against the Romans and Arab invaders from the East, they really don't seem to like one another.  All practice Islam in one form or another, but the Berbers also retain certain rituals which precede their conversion in the 8th century.  Moulay Idriss was the person who broke from Mecca in the 8th century and unified the tribes here.  The Berbers have long been the niggers of Morocco, despite their large ethnic majority.  Arab Spring was cleverly averted here when the king formally recognized the Berber language and also generated other reforms (mostly in name only) to pacify the natives.  In general, it's still who you know and who you pay that makes things happen here.  The judge (essentially a divorce court judge) went on and on about how much he hated Arab men.  He also mixed some clever rock and roll lines (a Pink Floyd fan) into the conversation.

Our second day was spent at Volubilis, a 3rd century Roman ruin about 3 miles W of Moulay Idriss.  Volubilis represented the furthest Westerly city of the Roman Empire.  It thrived during the 3rd century BC and is best know for 1700 year old mosaics that have somehow withstood the centuries without any protection from the elements.  Amazing how the tiles have retained their colors and the designs showing various epic heroes like Hercules were both well-conceived and well-executed.  We pretty much had the site to ourselves for an hour before the tour buses started descending like swarms of locusts.  Damn, doesn't anyone travel independently anymore?

The following morning we strolled around Moulay and checked out the famous tomb of Moulay Idriss as best we could (non-believers aren't allowed into the mosque and its only been in recent years that non-Muslims were even allowed into the town).  While the guesthouse was a disappointment, Moulay was a good place to begin our Moroccan adventure since it's a low key kind of place out in the country.  Next stop, Fez.

Fez, Monkeys and the Middle Atlas

Much as I'd like to have purchased a fez in Fez, the realization that it would have looked about as urbane as an Iowan wearing a sombrero in Tijuana (or perhaps more recently, folks in Venice walking around with gondoliers hats) caused me to think twice.  Still, I've lost the opportunity to do  Peter Lorre Casablanca imitations in my living room and that's a shame.

We took a delightful, rural drive for about two hours from Moulay Idriss to Fez.  I was dreading the drive into Fez, having read all sorts of awful things about touts attacking on motorcycles as well as swarms of guides trying to steer us to different guesthouses,....just the usual stuff you'd experience in India.  In fact, we were only approached by two motorcyclists on the edge of town and one person when we parked.  The guesthouse owner (Karim) met us at the parking lot and escorted us into the maze that's the Fez medina.  The old town dates back to 800AD (and "It looks it", to quote James Fox in Performance after Turner--Mick Jagger--tells him a carpet he's just flicked ashes upon is 1000 years old).  Anyways, we spent a couple of days hanging around in the medina and even sprung for a tour guide for one day.  She took us to several different mosques, museums and palaces, but her lack of good English made the tour uneventful.  Best thing was to just wander around, get lost and then try to figure one's way back to the riad (fancy Moroccan guesthouse/B&B); special shout out to Google Maps and a Moroccan SIM card.  Finally got some decent Moroccan food, with one dinner in a gorgeous old riad and the other in a sidewalk cafe in the middle of the action. We ate pastillas (a stuffed bread coated with powdered sugar and cinnamon) and some yummy chicken tajines, which included olives and preserved lemons.  This is an excellent cuisine when done right.  Our guesthouse was much better than the place in Moulay Idriss, though the beds were a bit hard (this was something we'd learn to expect) and the room was very small.  Those expecting a more real Moroccan experience versus staying in the outlying chain hotels have to put up with a certain amount of discomfort while letting go of Western expectations. Riads can range in cost from $30/night to around $100 and while we stayed at the higher end of the scale most nights, they all seemed to be lacking in one way or another.  Nonetheless, I wouldn't want to come to Morocco and stay at the equivalent of a Holiday Inn.

The Blue Gate, Fez

After Fez, we headed into the Middle Atlas mountains and the strange little town of Ifrane, built by the French to model an alpine village in Switzerland.  It's also home of one of Morocco's most prestigious universities.  We took a loop off the main road and visited some lakes and a Berber market.  While the lakes weren't very impressive since it's the end of the dry season, we were surprised to see the fall foliage.  We continued to the Cedar Grove in search of the famous Barbary Apes (they're really monkeys, not apes).  Didn't have to look too far before we came upon a heavily touristed spot full of people feeding the macaques.  So much for an authentic nature experience, though it was still pretty cool to see monkeys in Morocco.

 We spent the night on an organic farm South of Azrou.  The farm was run by a guy from Switzerland and his Moroccan wife.  While the beds were still rock hard, at least the rooms were sizable and both breakfast and dinner were included (a good thing since we were in the middle of nowhere).  We drove towards the Sahara the next day with a long detour through part of a National Park in the area.  We got lucky and met up with a troop of wild macaques who seemed unhappy to see us.  Finally, some real nature.  So far, the rural areas of Morocco have been stunningly beautiful, at times seeming like a trip into the distant past.  Farming is still very rudimentary and most rural families travel via donkey cart rather than car.

Into the Sahara

Overheard tour bus patron asking the guide "When did the monarchy end?"  Tour guide answers, "Which monarchy"?  Tourist replies "Whichever".  Wonder why a longterm tour guide hasn't written a "Tour Guide Confidential" book ala Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential"?  I can imagine the amount of looney questions which are asked every day.

Moving along, from the Azrou area we crossed from the Middle Atlas and into the High Atlas range before descending through the Ziz Gorge into Er Rachidia, where we were pleased to find a very nice motel (Auberge Tinit)  with good beds, reading lights, a lot of space and a nice bathroom.  While that doesn't sound very exciting, it was the first place we stayed where a hotel/guesthouse managed to put it all together.  Unfortunately, woke up the next morning with a case of the Moroccan version of Delhi Belly and had to hole up for a day while recovering.  Been at least six years since I've had such an illness, so I guess I was due.  The following day I battered my stomach by eating a medfouna (a sort of Berber calzone--not very good) followed by a dinner of tasty Berber ground meat with a lot of local spices.  Oh well, it's not like I'm going to return here soon, so gotta take advantage of those one-of-a-kind eating opportunities, however distressful.

Got lucky and found another acceptable hotel near Merzouga, the gateway to the Erg Chebbi Dunes and the home of our camel tent camp.  At this point we were deep into the Moroccan Sahara.  Did a little car touring and stumbled upon a Gnaoua band, Les Pigeons du Sable, who put on a private show for us.   Gnaoua is music created by freed slaves from (as they call it here) Black Africa.  It consists of a lot of percussion using drums and castenets as well as stringed instruments.  The performers enter a trance-like state, spinning around a jumping spontaneously.  There are several large Gnaoua festivals and Peter Gabriel has recorded some of the music.  Uplifting stuff and now we've got a desert CD to play.  Here's a YouTube link for the band  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYu3FvU6fEI

Finally, the big day arrived and we headed off to the meeting place for our overnight camel trek.  Touristy for sure, but hard to resist.  We climbed aboard our complaining camels (Romeo and Casanova) and set out across the dunes for our luxury tented camp.  The ride took about 90 minutes and was very hard on our thighs and legs.  There are no stirrups and one has to hold one's thighs apart at an abnormal angle the entire time.  While we could have ridden the camels back the next day, by the time we arrived at the camp, we knew we were going to take the 4WD return option.  The trips typically start during the late afternoon as the sun sets and the dunes change colors.  A really beautiful ride and we could see the mountains of Algeria just 10 miles distant.  Upon dis-embarking from the camels, my camel wiped it's mouth on Suzee's sweater, then started loudly howling.  I did my best camel impersonation and gave it back to the camel, who replied even more loudly.  I'm fairly sure the camel wipe was intentional and I can sympathize with their indignity of having to haul tourists around.  So with two monkey blocks in the back and a camel wipe, Suzee has clinched the annual family award for fun with animals.  They must see that city girl in her and lay it on thick.  The camp was nothing less than spectacular; not only were we lucky enough to have it to ourselves that evening, but we were served drinks and snacks on arrival and a six course dinner.  The tents were truly luxurious, with fine linens, comfy beds and power enough to read as well as charge various gadgets.  Just before bedtime, we were treated to a roaring campfire with some very good Berber music which was performed by the staff.  Unfortunately, a nearly full moon prevented us from seeing many stars.  The camp is run by a Berber (Ali) and his English wife (Sara).  Sara handles the accommodations and has an excellent feel for what makes guests happy.  Highly recommended (Ali and Sara's Desert Camp).

Gorging in Maroc

The scenery on the desert side of the Atlas range is spectacular.  Within 100 miles lie three beautiful gorges as well as Saharan dune fields and the Algerian frontier.  All three of the gorges would rate as National Parks in the US and the scenery compares well with Southern Utah.  The aforementioned Ziz Gorge was a nice prequel to the more fantastic Todra and Dades Gorges.  While all three could be seen in a busy day, it's easy to envision several weeks trekking the area.  One of my favorite routes was through the Dades Gorge, a section of which makes www.dangerousroads.org's list of most dangerous highways in the world.  Lots of narrow blind curves and it's a good thing no trucks were coming!  The main road linking the gorges has the title "Route of 1000 Kasbahs" and in between the gorges one drives through ksars and kasbahs ranging from those in total ruin to those still being used as living quarters.  This area was part of the great trade routes of centuries past, when Moroccan salt and was traded for African gold.  It would ultimately be my favorite part of Morocco, marred only slightly by a terrible room in a supposed five star ranked TripAdvisor hotel in the Dades Gorge.  We took it because it was raining hard and getting dark and driving after dark here is a real no-no.

Dades Gorge on the list of World's Most Dangerous Roads

Along the Route of 1000 Kasbahs

After seeing the Gorges, we decided to spend our final desert evenings in Ouarzazate, a former French Foreign Legion outpost and now home to several large film studios.  Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia, The Last Temptation of Christ and Kundun were filmed a few miles from town at Atlas Studios, the largest studio in the world.  If it's good enough for Marty it's good enough for me.

At this point we've been on the road for over a month and we're starting to get tired of the travel grind, so we booked into the reliable Hotel Ibis chain and stayed on for a second night.  Hot showers, reading lights, a desk, good internet and the best beds in Morocco made for a nice vacation within a vacation and set us up for the grueling drive to Marrakesh.

I Refuse to Call This Chapter Marrakesh Express

Mechoui Alley--Street Food Doesn't Get Much Better

I must be getting really old.  No one offered to sell me me drugs or women on the Jemaa El Fna (The Square) in Marrakesh.  However, everything else imaginable was offered again and again.  No thank you, I don't need a guide, glass of orange juice, kebob, a look into your shop, taxi, horse carriage ride or flexible wooden snake from China.  The bombardment was relentless around The Square, which might be the most overrated tourist spot in the world.  Yes, you can see snake charmers, tumblers, monkeys on meter long chains (Ugh! That's just damned cruel), boxing matches between frightened looking teens and oddities such as a fat David Crosby lookalike who chugs tea from a steaming kettle and blows the steam out of his nostrils.  Problem is you fight huge crowds and then have to listen to 20 minutes of build up (aka solicitations for $$) before you get a minute of action.  Imagine going to the circus for three hours and seeing 10 minutes of acts.  I gave it all a second and third chance before concluding this was one huge waste of time.  Save your money and just go to the Oregon Country Fair, a Jim Rose show or just watch Jackass on TV.

On top of constantly fighting massive crowds in the small lanes through the souks, one had to be aware of bicyclists and motorcyclists racing through the fray (sometimes at breakneck speed). Imagine going to Macy's in Manhattan the day after Thanksgiving and having motorcyclists zoom through the store.  Suzee got clipped twice by cycles and we saw another lady take a hard hit.  Despite the signs here and there restricting bicycles and motorcycles, neither riders nor police seemed to care.

You might be asking, "Was there anything redeeming about Marrakesh?".  The level of excitement in the souks was interesting for a short while (though we'd already experienced a mini-version in Fez).  Unlike India, the vendors/touts don't follow you around and are happy to move onto the next tourist.  Our riad (guesthouse/B&B) was exceptional.  Mechoui Alley presented the best street food I've eaten on the six week trip; the alley consists of half a dozen lamb vendors who spit roast whole lambs for roughly 12 hours in pits under the stalls.  The pits are covered with unvented manhole covers, so you're literally eating on top of the "kitchen".  The lamb is sold in 1/4 kilo increments and costs around $18 per kilo.  It's served Texas BBQ style on wax paper and you eat with your hands (make that hand....no, make that RIGHT hand).  The price includes bread, mint tea and a fabulous cumin salt to sprinkle on the lamb.  Quite fatty (ever try lamb cracklin'?) and I'll probably lose a week off my life, but I'll forever dream about that lamb.  Bourdain visited Lamb Alley some years back.

High Atlas Mountains West of Marrakesh

In general, I thought the food was tastier in Marrakesh and the Photography Museum was a highlight.  It consisted of many photos of Morocco and it's inhabitants from the 1870s to the 1920s.  What was quite remarkable was how much things have stayed the same here on many levels ranging from dress to cultivation techniques to architecture within the old souks.

Overall impressions of Morocco:  I enjoyed my visit, but have no desire to go back.  Were I to go back, I'd surely choose areas East of the High Atlas and South of Marrakesh.  I'd avoid the cities simply because I do not like being hassled nearly every step.  I understand the poverty and desperation that drives individuals to make money in any way they can, but I choose not to be a part of the system while hoping the government has some ideas regarding how to put a largely unemployed job force to work.  While I never felt unsafe in Morocco, I did sense some resentment from those not in the tourist industry.  Even an Easyjet flight and a $20/day rental car must seem like a small fortune to an underemployed Moroccan.

If I have one suggestion for the powers in Morocco, it's to get the motorcycles out of the medina in Marrakesh. or at least force riders to walk their cycles through the souks.  Dealing with those cycles made for a very unpleasant experience for this tourist.  If I have one suggestion for tourists, it's to visit Mechoui alley for the best lamb ever, then head for the canyons and the desert.

As a final note, we wrapped up our trip with a full day in Seville while positioning ourselves for the flight home.  Our day in Seville represented one of my best tourism days EVER.  We spent hours in the 3rd largest cathedral in the world (and home of the tomb of Christopher Freakin' Columbus), then headed over to the Royal Alcazar, an old palace complex that has some of the best Moorish architecture in the world.  We then wandered the charming streets of downtown and finished off the evening with a dazzling flamenco show.

Thanks for taking the time to read this blog.  While it's mostly a personal diary and a means to save repetitious emails and Facebook posts for friends, I hope other travelers have gotten a bit of useful information and I'm happy to answer any questions submitted in the "Comments" section below.

Classic, Lovely Old Bullring in Center of Seville